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GROWING CYCADS

REPOTTING A CYCAD

by Phil Bergman

Description of Article

This article is a pictorial guide to repotting of a cycad plant. There is discussion of when and how to put your cycad into a larger container, the preferable pot size to use and things to avoid.

Introduction

As many of you know, there is very little information in books and on the Internet about how to grow cycads. If given good culture, cycads will grow and many species are actually fairly "fast" growers. As a plant gets larger, its roots and root mass also grow. This requires repotting the cycad into a larger container. I am often asked "how do I do it?" At our nursery, we repot thousands of cycads. What this article will do is give you a series of pictures with discussion on the actual process of moving a cycad into a larger container. I will make comments on each topic discussed below and discuss container size, cycad potting soil, things to avoid, and make general comments on cycad culture.

WHEN DOES A CYCAD NEED TO BE REPOTTED?

Cycads have very large root systems for the size of the plant above the ground. This is most apparent with plants in the juvenile stage. A simple single leaf germinated seed can have a main root that is quite large. As the plant grows for the next several years, this main radical can expand and get surprisingly large. It would not be unusual to have an Encephalartos with a cuadex (trunk) of 2 inches and leaves about 2 feet long to have a main subterranean root that is the size of a large potato or yam. As the cycad grows and ages, you might see a "bulging" of the container. As time goes on, the soil will become filled with roots. Roots may begin to emerge from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Below are some things which might let you know that it's time to repot.

The plant becomes unstable and tips over easily

The caudex occupies 50% or more of the diameter of the container

The container is becoming distorted or "bulging" significantly

The plant starts to "lift itself" out of the container, visibly showing roots below the caudex

New leaves seem to be stunted or not forming correctly

Drainage of water through the container seems to be restricted

The container is breaking or cracking apart

The plant just appears too big for the container

When the existing soil in the pot is broken down or decomposing

Typically new Encephalartos seedlings	This caudex is too big for this container
Roots of band size cycad ready for repot	A Cycas which outgrew a citrus pot
This Encephalartos is unstable in its 2 gallon pot	Old broken down cycad soil
Overgrown cycad in citrus pot	Bulging pot from cycad roots
Damaged pot from cycad roots	More examples roots damaging cycad pots
Unstable cycad in citrus pot	Even cycad seedlings have big roots

WHAT SIZE OF NEW CONTAINER DO I USE?

The general rule is that one selects the next larger size of container, but this is variable. It might also depend on what containers are available to you. In The West Coast, container sizes are different than in the Eastern U.S. Out here we go by "gallon size" whereas back East the containers are measured in "inches" such as "eight inch", "ten inch", etc. One could simply select a container that is three to six inches greater in diameter and also in depth. You may have heard that cycads like "deep pots". This is true. I would take depth over diameter when selecting a container size. This is why the citrus pot size is more popular than the 5 gallon pot. It is more narrow, but about 3 to 6 inches deeper. This gives the roots more room. Above 15g size it is sometimes better to go with a 24 inch box. This is because available pots greater than the 15g size often are no deeper than the 15g. In fact, the typical 20g pot is the exact same depth as a 15g pot. Note should be made that some people prefer un-glazed clay pots saying they "breathe better". This is true and may aerate the roots better. But, containers made from clay are much more expensive that plastic pots. If the clay pot has an enamel coat, it will breathe no better than a plastic pot.

Select a container 3 to 6 inches wider and deeper than the existing pot
Try to select a new container that adds depth (taller pot) thus giving more root depth

WHAT TYPE OF POTTING SOIL DO I USE?

Although there's variability in the needs between cycad genera, in general all types of cycads like a good draining soil. What "good draining" means is that you will promptly see any added water into the pot come through the bottom holes in a matter of seconds. If you water your plant and it takes several minutes for water to appear out of the bottom drain holes, your drainage is not optimal. Materials that promote drainage include such items as pumice, pebbles, large Perlite, very coarse sand, coarse decomposed granite, wood chips (until they break down) and coarse peat moss. Items that slow drainage include fine sand (20 grit as an example), clay soil, fine top soil, or any fine particulate matter. You can use topsoil in a cycad mix, but you must "open it up" with the more coarse items or it will not drain well. Below is a general recipe for cycad soil with comments about the mix we use at the nursery.

General Recipe for Cycad Potting Soil
1. One part pumice (one can substitute scoria)
2. One part 1/8 to 1/4 inch redwood orchid bark (make sure it's not fine)
3. One part course sand (grit # 12 best).
4. One part coarse peat moss.
Jungle Music's Cycad Potting Soil
To the above mixture we also add 1/2 part of horticultural charcoal and 1/2 part of perlite #2. This improves drainage and "sweetens" the mix.
To a one yard volume of either mix above, one should add approximately one to two pounds of dolomite lime, one pound of microelements (such as Ironite), and one pound of a slow release fertilizer (such as Osmocote).

Note: This is a "potting soil" - a mix for the garden would be different and have to be blended with your native garden soil.

container sizes, left to right:
band, 1 gal, 2g, 5g, 7g, 15g, 20g, 24 in box

band size pot

close up band size container, the smallest pot
size we use

PHOTOS OF COMPONENTS OF A TYPICAL CYCAD POTTING SOIL

Pumice	Perlite #2
Sand, coarse grit #12	Redwood bark chips
Peat Moss (not sphagnum moss)	Dolomite to correct (lower pH) acidity in soil
Finished Product - Cycad Potting Soil

WHAT TIME OF YEAR IS BEST TO TRANSPLANT

Cycads are very sturdy plants and are not difficult to grow. If you live in a warmer climate, you can repot them at any time during the growing season, which is spring to fall. If you have a greenhouse you are growing the plants in, then almost any time of year would work. Some prefer to repot their plants in late winter or early spring, thus giving them a full growing season ahead. If you have a significant problem like a torn container or very poor drainage, I would favor repotting immediately as opposed to waiting for a more optimal time.

PHOTOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION OF REPOTTING A CYCAD

Below you will see a series of photographs taken while we repotted an Encephalartos. I'll make comments in the left column.

This shows the cycad that we have chosen to repot
You can see that the caudex is very large for this citrus pot container
You can also imagine how this plant might be unstable in its container
One first grasps the caudex firmly with one hand. You will be holding the plant with this hand when you remove the plant from the container

With the plant's caudex being firmly held, one tips up the end of the container, holding the plant in place and observing for any movement of the root ball.
One would then continue inverting the container until it is upside down. Typically, if well established, the plant will start to slide out of its pot
Note that the root ball slide out of the container intact. Be aware that sometimes this loose cycad mix may fall away. If happens, just hold onto the plant and continue with the repot. You'll be adding new mix to stabilize the plant in the new container.
Shown is a well rooted, tight root ball that hasn't fallen apart
Here new cycad potting soil is being added to the container that will be this cycad's new pot. You must measure the height of the removed root ball above so you know how much soil to add to the bottom of the pot before putting the plant into this new pot.
One would now place the cycad into the pot with new mix at the bottom of the container. The plnat must be held firmly, suspening it in space. You add soil around the roots as you hold the plant.
Note how two hands are now holding the plant. As you add soil, the force of the soil could knock the plant out of your hands
Mix is being carefully added to the pot, pouring it down the sides away from the rootball. The plant is still being suspended in air with two hands.
Additional soil has been added so the plant is now stabilized and no longer needs to be held. At this point one must start to firmly pack in the potting soil.
Extra potting soil is added because, after you pack it in, the level will drop.
The cycad mix is being packed down into the pot
For larger containers, you can use your fists to pack in the soil
The finished product with the new cycad in a 15g container. Don't forget to water.

HOW DO I LEARN MORE?

Thank you for reading about our nursery.

Phil Bergman

Owner of Jungle Music, Palm and Cycad Author and Creator of this Website

Nursery Location: 450 Ocean View Ave, Encinitas, CA 92024
Phone: 619 291 4605
Nursery Hours: 9AM to 4PM, Monday through Saturday

Email: phil@junglemusic.net

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